Unlike Your Rolls Royce, Bahraini Pearls Are a Good Investment

From Left to Right - Yusuf bin Ahmed Kanoo, Salman Mattar, Jacques Cartier, Mugbil Al-Tbukair and a pearl expert

Like Jacques Cartier who came to Bahrain in 1921 looking for pearls, the Japanese have recently been to Bahrain on a pearl quest Dr. Ali Safar confided to us.

Dr. Safar, the Director of the Precious Metals and Gemstone Testing Laboratory in Bahrain, was the key note speaker at a Pearl lecture I attended last week.

Why? Today 95% of the pearls sold worldwide are cultivated in China.  Even the Japanese who created the cultured pearl industry have given up against the Chinese onslaught.  The only market the Japanese can afford to compete in today are pearls larger than 8mm.

Not to denigrate the quality of cultured pearls, for as Dr. Safar said, “experts with a lot of experience” have difficulty differentiating between a cultured pearl and a natural pearl.  The real difference between natural and cultured pearls is its essence – was it created naturally, by chance, or has man manipulated nature in his laboratory for commerce.

Bahraini pearls have not only worn by royalty but “al haka” or extremely small pearls that cannot be drilled are crushed and eaten or used in cosmetics because they are believed to hold the secret to immortality.

Bahraini pearls prized status as “Jiwan” (perfect pearls) began 5,000 years ago when the ancient Sumerians wrote about the two-thirds divine, one-third human, King of Ur, Gilgamesh.

Gilgamesh after losing his beloved friend, the wild man Enkidu, began to worry about his own mortality.  He decided to search for Utnapishtim the survivor of the Great Flood to whom the Gods had bestowed immortality.  Gilgamesh traveled to Dilmun (Bahrain) where Utnapishtim and his family lived.  After some negotiation, Utnapishtim told him the flower (the pearl) of immortality lay at the bottom of the sea.  Gilgamesh dove down deep and found the pearl.  But when he fell asleep, a snake swallowed it.

The Epic of Gilgamesh gave Bahraini pearls a special magic.  But the reason they are the rarest natural pearls in the world is because of the unique natural phenomenon in the Gulf where fresh water springs burst out into the salt water.  Unfortunately even Paradise can only support so many people.  The seemingly endless fresh water supply has been nearly used up by modern people and industry.  Like the rest of the world’s oceans, the Gulf’s sea beds are polluted and have been diminished by government land reclamation.

Similar to diamonds, a pearl’s value is based on its luster, color, shape and size.  The larger the pearl, the more valuable it is.  The Bahraini pearl’s incredible luster is based on its unique habitat.  In Bahrain where Indian traders dominate pearl wholesaling, pearl descriptions are in Hindi.  The Indian scale starts with perfect pearls or Jiwan which means beauty.

“Everyone wants Jiwan but they are very rare,” Dr. Safar assured us.

Shireen is next, meaning “sweet” or having very good luster.

Gholwah means “round pearls” or average.

Badlah means irregular shape.

Sihteet are poor to average luster.

Khaka is kaka – in every language I guess – or the lowest quality.

Bahraini pearls range up to twelve different colors depending on the mollusks.   A local diver said she noticed the pearl’s color was dependent on where it formed with the pearl’s body.

“Mollusks are like people,” said Dr. Safar.  “Some are white and some are yellow.”

In the Gulf region, the mahar mollusks produce the nabati pearls, cream with a reddish hue, which are favored among the Gulf people.  The abyadh (white) and gallabi (white with a strong iridescence) are popular with other buyers.  The zinni mollusks found in the shallow waters produce the rare colored, more expensive, pearls.

Pearl buying is like buying a used-car.

“If the salesman figures out what you like, you might pay 1,000 dinars when other people will only pay 100.  This is life,” counseled Dr. Safar.

The only way to know how that creamy bit of calcium carbonate was created is to x-ray it – at the lab – after purchase.

Despite their small size, Dr. Safar assured us a double stranded, Bahraini pearl necklace was a better investment than a Rolls-Royce.

“A Roll’s value depreciates,” he said nodding at the two Saudis in their elegant thobes, “but a Bahraini pearl only increases in value.”

Since my blog hasn’t made me enough money to buy either a Rolls Royce or a pearl necklace, I am afraid I will have to wait until I reach Paradise where the Koran says the faithful will be adorned in pearls.

Hmmm, maybe I have a better chance finding that snake.

Giving Credit Where Credit is Due

A preacher comes up to a farmer in his field and remarks,

“Mighty fine farm you and the Lord have made.”

“Yep,” replies the farmer, “but you should have seen it when He had it all to Himself.”

from PS I Love You compiled by H. Jackson Browne Jr.

The Sweeter the Juice

Thursdays I read with Mark’s classmates at school.  As I waited, I perused the healthy eating posters someone created.  Pineapple was this week’s chosen fruit.

Pineapple is full of vitamin C, vitamin B and magnesium for helping our immune system.  Bromelain aids digestion.  And the poster said pineapple sweetens and improves the taste of seminal and vaginal fluids.

WHAT?!?

I called Mark’s teacher over and asked her whether or not she knew this much about pineapples.

“OH my GOD!” was her response.

She poked her head into Ace’s teacher’s room and called him out.  We watched him mouth the words and his eyes widen.

“Someone must have copied and pasted without reading this,” he said.

They scooped up the poster to put in its proper place – in the teacher’s lounge.

I wondered how an adult making a poster for children could have made such a mistake and Googled pineapple.  Generally none of the sites touted those benefits.  Only when I added vaginal fluid to pineapple did I find articles extolling that particular virtue.

Perhaps the mysterious poster creator did not understand English.

Or perhaps some 10-year old student knew exactly what he/she was doing and wanted to see whether the teachers were paying attention.

In The Palm of My Heart

Happy Valentine's Day - cards and flowers from my children

11 –

Let us be together

Hanged by the peg of heart

Beneath the sky we adore

The sky that loves

You are coquetry of the beginning of jasmine

You spread out in my liberty

From a fearful night

From In the Palm of My Heart by Ali Al Satrawai

Pearl, Dreams of Shell

Ali Al Satrawai is a Bahraini poet, writer and journalist.  This verse came from an anthology of contemporary poetry, Pearl, Dreams of Shell compiled and translated by Hameed Al Qaed.

Lessons from the Najd – How to Live in a Sandstorm

Prince Sultan bin Salman Al Sa'ud's Farm

As we are the middle of a sandstorm, I changed my theory.  I think walls around Middle Eastern houses help to keep the desert from taking over the front yard.

Living in an older section of the island, our compound is surrounded by a wall.  Inside we hardly notice the sandstorms.  But many of my friends have moved out to the new golf development in the middle of the desert.  Designed to appeal to westerners, neither the houses nor the development have perimeter walls.  My friends are complaining the sand is piling up in mini-dunes around their homes and they cannot open their windows with all the swirling sand.

Several years ago Prince Sultan bin Salman bin Abd al-Aziz Al Sa’ud invited Mojo to his renovated, al-Udhaibat farm outside of Riyadh.  The farm retained its traditional Najdi architecture which enabled people to live in the desert before electricity.

One key aspect was to surround the house with palm trees.  The palms acted as natural barriers against the sand.  The air was cooled as it swept through the shaded areas under the palms.  Upon reaching the garden, walls kept any remaining dust and sand from entering the house.

Courtyard and airflow

Besides surrounding the house with walls, central courtyards are a key feature of these mud houses.  The wind passing over creates a low-pressure zone in the courtyard.  This sucks in eddies but the low-pressure is counteracted by well-placed apertures in the rooms into the courtyard.

During the night, the courtyard and roof act as a cool air sink.

During the day, the sun heats the courtyard.  Warm air rises creating a chimney effect and pulls breeze through the rooms.

In the evening, the courtyard and buildings retain heat then give it off as the night air cools.

As I think about our impact on the desert whether as an eco-tourist or a westerner living in the desert, I find William Facey’s BACK TO EARTH: ADOBE BUILDING IN SAUDI ARABIA to be a very enlightening study of traditional Arab architecture and its effect on the environment.

All photos and images are from this book.

Island Fever

Every country has its pluses and minuses.

Living on a small island means the people and places become very familiar and comfortable.  It’s cozy.  But after a few months when these same people and places become a bit over-seen, we need a break.

The only way to drive off the island is to cross the causeway into Saudi Arabia.  Unless you hold a GCC passport, you need a visa to get in there.  If the Saudis do allow you in, you have to cut through miles of desert to end up in the same desert under a different government.

We could take a boat.

A successful water escape requires a knowledgeable captain otherwise we might be like the first Bahraini sailboat to participate in an international regatta.  A couple of years ago as Team Pindar maneuvered their brand-spanking new “Kingdom of Bahrain” yacht towards Dubai, they cut too far east and ended up getting arrested by the Iranian Revolutionary Guard.  After being held for a week, the government negotiated their release but the team missed the race.

Even if we didn’t have “evil intentions” to infiltrate Iran, a spyglass is a top ten necessity to scan the sea for pirates.  And we don’t have one.

So generally an island vacation requires a flight.

Should we fly one hour and still find ourselves in the Gulf? Different place, same flies.

Should we fly three hours and find ourselves in a regional skirmish?

Should we fly seven hours and find ourselves in freezing cold Europe?

ABOUT BETWEEN TWO SEAS

Photographer Andrew Weaver published a gorgeous coffee table book with many inspired and humorous photos about Bahrain.  Between Two Seas can be purchased in the large bookshops or at the Bin Matar House in Muharraq.  The great news is it was printed in different sizes so you can tuck one in your handbag for a gift or use it to decorate your coffee table and make your friends at home jealous.

On Different Lines – An Exhibit

Gallery Nekogameya

“When you find the small building with the red door, please enter and sign in.” said the invitation.

Guest Book at Gallery Nekogameya

Outside Wakayama, Japan,  a group of artists held an exhibit at the Nekogameya Art Gallery.

Launa MB Karasuno, my sister, was one of the artists displaying her work.  Her series of black ink drawings on homemade paper was titled “On Different Lines”.

I rarely bother her when she is getting ready for an exhibit.  Like all artists, she gets stressed and works long hours finishing up her paintings before the opening.

On Different Lines, 2011 by Launa MB Karasuno

On first glance, her work looks so simple  and I wonder why did it take so long to create this?

But as I stare, the detail and the meaning begin to emerge.  And instead I wonder does she sit in front of her easel staring at the blank sheet, waiting for a shape or an image to grow in her mind?

Puddle, 2011, Launa MB Karasuno

As High as It was Deep, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Cavernous, detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Or does it come from her dreams?

Different than the decorative art we hang in our house, her work is difficult for me to describe.  Modern, simple, organic, minimal, from the soul are some words that come to mind but they inadequately convey the depth and detail.

She sees something in the world that I do not.

a big one detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

She appears to be describing her feelings or perhaps the culture she lives in.

Too Heavy, detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Tethered - not, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

She’s a kind of poet, solidifying her entire expression into one thin line, describing her life in images.

Went Another Way, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

When We Are Old and Still, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

I think Japan is the right setting for her work.  The exhibit has the feel of a Japanese choka, a brief 5-7 sound unit poem that reverberates with feeling.

My sense is her creativity is not based upon what she sees.  It seeps from the very silent dimensions within her mind.

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