Arriving Late for the Jubilee Ball

It’s a fantastic time to visit London.  Everything has been spruced up for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the Olympics.

We arrived June 17th, the day after the Big Party.  I made up for missing it by purchasing HELLO Magazine’s Diamond Jubilee souvenir edition.

Through October, you can still enjoy an exhibit of the World’s Most Photographed Woman at the National Portrait Gallery.

A photographic documentary of the last 60 years, the exhibit includes some of the most famous 20th century photographers and artists.   The formal and regal Dorothy Wilding’s and Cecil Beaton’s 1952 coronation portraits to the Sex Pistol’s “God Save the Queen” album cover and Andy Warhol’s graphic re-interpretation of the Queen are all on display.

The exhibit includes American Annie Leibovitz’ 2007 Queen Elizabeth II, Buckingham Palace photo.  This was from the photo shoot which brought about “Queensgate”, a controversy that led to the resignation of the BBC One’s head.  I love this photo.

Leibovitz was given twenty-five minutes to photograph the 80-year old Queen.  All the photos were taken inside the palace.  At the last minute, Leibovitz asked the Queen for a final photo wearing the admiral’s cape but not the tiara.  Her image was digitally placed in the garden photo taken the day before.

I was naughty and took a photo of this great 3-D portrait before the guard swooped down on me and my little friend.

“Madame, you are not allowed to take any photos.”

Really?  It seems I am the first person who is not allowed to take a picture of the Queen.

If you are not in London, you can view the National Portrait Gallery’s 716 photos of the Queen online.

Annie Leibovitz’ other, more formal, photos of the Queen can be seen in her book, Annie Leibovitz At Work.

In this wonderful book, Leibovitz describes photographing Arnold Schwarzenegger when he was a body-builder and not the Governator; working as a photographer for Rolling Stone; and her by-chance opportunities with the aged architect Philip Johnson, writer Irving Penn and artist Agnes Martin.

She took photos of many, many famous people like Nicole Kidman before she had all that work done on her face and Hillary Clinton with short-hair.  Somebody needs to re-send that photo to Hillary.  I think she needs a new hair style.

There is a photo of Carl Lewis taken just before he competed in the 1996 Atlanta Olympics – Yaoo – Za!

Sorry Queen, I got a little distracted.

Don’t Pick Me Up – Eurostar Eavesdropping

Riding the Eurostar through the Chunnel from Paris to London I mused on how technologies continue opening our private lives to the general public.

After thwarting the Gare du Nord pickpockets, we waited in the Duty-Free lobby for our train.  Sipping my latte, I people watched and noticed a young woman.  Her platinum Annie Lenox (who sang at the Queen’s Jubilee Party) haircut and high-heeled boots with 4-inch metal spikes caught my attention.  As she sashayed through the lobby, Mojo looked up from his Ipad.

“The walk of shame,” he grinned, referring to people/women caught in the morning wearing their party clothes from the night before.

Of course – on the train she ended up sitting in the seat in front of Mojo and across the aisle from me.  Mojo again mouthed “walk of shame” as the smell of alcohol wafted in our direction.  I giggled remembering my own days of wine and song.

Fumbling through her enormous handbag that carried everything a girl needed for a quick trip to Paris, she pulled out her mobile.

“Hello Brian.  I just wanted you to know that I am on the train from Paris and will arrive at 10:30.”

“You lost your debit card?…You don’t know where?….So you cannot pick me up.  I don’t need you to pick me up….You don’t have to be sorry…….Brian, I just wanted to tell you, it’s over.  I am tired of it all…..No, don’t pick me up from the station.  I was out last night and I am tired.  I am just going to go home to sleep…..Of course, you go and pick up your card.  I can get home by myself.  It doesn’t matter.  I am done with it all. You and the drama.  I am done.  That’s it…..No, don’t pick me up from the station.  Go get your card.  I am tired, all I want to do is sleep.  I will talk to you after I have slept… I just wanted to tell you I am going to be in London at 10:30.  But don’t pick me up.  I will go home and sleep.  Okay good-bye and don’t pick me up.”

She fumbled through her bag and the phone rang again.

It was Brian.

“Yes?…I don’t want to talk to you until I have slept. …. I called to tell you I am arriving at 10:30.  I don’t need you to pick me up….. Look I am shattered.  And I am sick to death of you and your issues.  I cannot take it anymore.  I am done. That’s it.  Finished……I don’t need this in my life.  You go and get your card.  I am arriving at 10:30 then I will go home and sleep….I don’t want you anymore.  It’s over.  I am finished….I understand.  Go get your card but I am done.  Don’t pick me up.  I need to sleep.  Okay good-bye.”

Ring, ring.

“Hello?  Hi darling… I am great.  How are you?….. I am on the train coming in from Paris.  I went for a quick visit….No, without Brian.  It was great…I will be in London at 10:30.  Sorry, I am exhausted after last night and I need to sleep when I get in.  But I can meet you around 5:30…..Yes, I just need a little nap and I will be fine…. Okay see you at tea.  Bye-bye.”

She turned her phone to silent but felt it vibrating and swiped her finger across the face.

“I wasn’t ignoring you.  I was talking with someone else.”

Brian.

“I cannot talk to you now.  I am not interested in your drama.  I’m done.  Finished.  I DO NOT CARE.…..Go get your card.  I can get home by myself….I will arrive in London at 10:30…. No – don’t pick me up.  Good-bye.”

Emotionally and physically exhausted, she slipped her phone into her bag.  Lulled by the train, she snored within seconds.  She woke up in time to powder her nose and to check to see if Brian had called before the train pulled in at 10:30.

Pick Pockets in Paris

Becoming a Tourist in Paris for a few days requires changing our island mindset.  In Bahrain designer purses get their own chair at the restaurant table.  In Paris, the centuries-old city of pickpockets, purses are a liability.

Around Notre Dame where 16-year old Esmeralda and her goat danced and performed tricks, Tourists are prime targets.

This was my first European trip using my iphone as my primary camera.  Lifting my arms to take Susan’s photo outside Notre Dame, I decided it was not a good idea.  It was too easy to have my phone snatched from my hand like the Paris police chief.  A stolen iphone would be a bigger loss than a stolen camera.

Entrance to Notre Dame Cathedral is free but often there is a long line.  As the unsuspecting Tourist waits, people try to “sell” you tickets.  Inside the cathedral as Tourists maneuver around the darkened shrines among a throng of jostling people, the church fathers posted more signs warning about pickpockets than signs asking for Silence.

Convincing children to keep quiet in church is easier if ice cream becomes a goal.  However, even an ice cream expedition can become a Tourist trap.

As our five children shouted their double-scoop orders, the young man suggested sitting down at a table where the waiter would serve us.  After three hours of walking, it sounded like a good idea.  The nine of us began crowding around tables and pulling up chairs.  Upon reading the menu we realized of course ice cream served “inside” was not 3.95 euros but 9 euros each.

We jumped up and went back to the young man for the ice cream cones.  He unapologetically took our orders.  The trouble being a Tourist is your money is your most important aspect.

Lagging the others, I was walking up the steps to the Musee d’Orsay when a woman holding a child’s hand bent over in front of me.  As I side-stepped her, she lifted up a gold wedding band.  “Madame,” she said.  I glanced at the ring.

“It’s not mine,” I said and continued on.

“Madame!” she called again.

I turned around and said “Lucky you.”  I heard a French couple following me click their tongues.  Then I realized she was pulling the well-practiced Gold Ring trick on me.  Once engaged the Trickster tries to get the Tourist to open their wallet.

The Gare du Nord train station’s edifice is magnificent but when we went inside to catch the morning Eurostar to London I felt uneasy.

The elevator to the second floor was broken.  Mojo in the lead, we wandered around like a family of ducks trying to find a way upstairs.  Laden with suitcases, we were spotted by a band of pickpockets.  Going up the escalator Mojo and I both noticed a couple of young men standing at the bottom watching me.

Outside immigration, we had to fill out UK landing cards.  Although I tried traveling light, I still had to carry my wallet, passports, phone and ipad in my purse.  Opening my bag, I got a pen and set it down on the table.  As I reached in to get our passport information, a young man on my right grabbed the pen.

“Hey, that’s my pen,” and I snatched it out of his hand, still holding my purse.

As I filled out the forms another young man came up on my left and asked to borrow my pen.  I glanced at him.  He looked nice enough with his curly hair and sweat shirt jacket.  My mind flashed forward to my own boys traveling through Europe with backpacks and no pen.

“Sorry, I am using it,” I said politely but firmly.  As I wrote he hovered over me and repeatedly asked for my pen.

“You’ll have to wait until I am done,” I said using my annoyed mother voice.   I knew giving him my pen meant losing it.  By the time I finished, he walked away.

We went through immigration and customs and waited in the lobby for our friends.  They told us the police had hand-cuffed two young men with curly hair who had been following them.

“Those were the same guys who kept trying to distract me,” I said realizing how lucky I was.

The reality is when consulting a map while taking photos you cannot help but look like a Tourist.

I took precautions like placing our passports, extra credit cards and health insurance cards in the hotel safe.  Outside, I carried my hotel room key without the room number, one credit card and big bills in different pockets.  In my leather purse which wrapped around my body was an old wallet filled with a few euros as bait for the pickpockets.  But when I was busy trying to navigate while watching children, I became the easily distracted Tourist.

After a sight-seeing vacation, I really appreciate being at home.  Despite standing out, I am not a Tourist.

Dubai’s Changing Skyline

Dubai Bus Stop with Burj Khalifa in the background

As the sign says

Dubai is

A map that gets updated every day.”

One afternoon, the Burj Khalifa is there and the next morning …

Burj Khalifa blasting off into space. Photo by Mojo in April 2012.

It blasts off to parts unknown.

Culture Clash – If Only It Was This Easy

As I chewed my Paul’s sandwich in the Mall of the Emirates, I watched a Chinese woman surrounded by a crowd of people blow her nose onto the marble floor.  I thought of this sign and wondered whether management should put up a “USE A TISSUE” sign.

In fourteen languages it might work.

Finding Universal Oneness in a Courtyard

Majlis Gallery Courtyard Dubai

The Majlis Gallery is the oldest art gallery in Dubai.  When we ducked through its entrance, I was delighted to find myself in an interior courtyard.  Opened in 1979 in an old Bastikiya wind tower house, it was the kind of place I always imagined we would live in.

We strolled under the Christ’s thorn tree through the central courtyard.  A gallery and working studio, a man was busy framing as a woman painted.  In the main gallery Lynette Ten Krooden’s landscapes were on display.  And the owner, Alison Collins, was trying to soothe a crying baby in a pram.

“My grandson is so tired,” she said.  “I am waiting for my daughter to come back.  Please take a program.”

I admired Krooden’s paintings before crossing into another room.  A man was seated on the sofa working on a large painting.  We greeted each other.

“You are working today,” I said nodding at his paint palette.

“Actually I am on vacation but decided to come in and do some work while it is so hot outside,” he said.

I took a step closer to see what he was working on.  It was a large maroon and green circle with intricate designs like a Tibetan mandala.

Artist Stephen E Meakin at Majlis Gallery in Dubai

He began explaining to me how Orchis 7 was created.

“Seven, you know, is the number of the days in the week corresponding to the creation of the earth, the seven colors of the rainbow and the seven heavens where the order of the angels dwell.  Seven is the universes’ dynamic wholeness. ”

He pulled out his compass and ruler and continued to explain the relationship between the circle and the triangle.

I was talking to Stephen E. Meakin the Sacred Geometer.

As Meakin described how a circle can be divided and the symbols he included in his work, I listened with wonder.   Of all the artists I could have met, I found it amazing I met the one whose work was based on Pythagoras’ sacred geometry.

The first philosopher, Pythagoras said

“All Things consist of Three.”

Sacred Geometry Triangle

α2 + β2 = γ2

Pythagoras taught everything in nature could be divided into three parts and no one could become truly wise if they did not view each problem as being diagrammatically triangular.

“Establish the triangle and the problem is two-thirds solved” Pythagoras said.

For nearly a half an hour Stephen Meakin and I discussed sacred geometry.  My sister and mother wondered in and joined our conversation.   The feeling that somehow this meeting was Divinely contrived stayed with me the whole time.  I asked him whether I could take a photo and thanked him for explaining his ideas.

“To me each painting is sacred,” Meakin said.  “But in the end it really is just art, isn’t it?”

The Majlis Gallery is open everyday except Friday.  They acknowledge parking can be difficult.  They make some suggestions on the website.

Stephen Meakin’s Desert Rose exhibit is currently at the Dubai Fairmont Hotel.

CYGNUS  – The Swan is one of the paintings.

Cygnus by Stephen E. Meakin Acrylic on Canvas

About Cygnus, Stephen Meakin writes on his website:

“The Enneagon is an extraordinary polygon with mystical connotations.  It is very seldom used in sacred architecture, even though it is the highest number that consists of one digit.

The number nine is full of symbolism.  It consists of three triads announcing the end of a cycle and the beginning of a new one. The human embryo needs nine months of growth before birth. Egyptian, Celtic and Greek myths have an ennead of nine gods and goddesses, representing the entire archetypal range of principles.  Nine is the number of perfection.”

(Stephen 11/03/2012)

Although the paintings range from 3×3 to 6×6 feet, Meakin said “like feminine energy, the twenty paintings are hidden within a very masculine structure.”

If you feel some softness as you walk along the Fairmont’s marble hallways, stop and see whether you have stumbled upon one Stephen’s inspired circles.

Who will Prevail? – Mother Nature or the Desert Sheikhs

View of area next to Dubai Mall from Burj Khalifa

Dubai reminds me of Las Vegas – without the gambling.  From the desert’s blank slate ambitious people employed modern engineering and literally created a fanciful world reminiscent of Arrakeen from the Dune series.

After years of going to Dubai for “events” and shopping, during my artist sister and mother’s visit, I finally went against traffic and followed Sheik Zayed Road to its origin at the Dubai Creek.  Two-story floating palaces anchored along the corniche’s edge reminded me of the Nile River cruisers.  Reaching the water, our taxi turned left and followed the Al Seef Road to its end at the wrought iron gates of the Ruler’s Court.

Arabian Horse outside Bastikiya Dubai

The road veered left, past the painted Arabian horse to the first roundabout. There on the right is Bastikiya.

Wind Tower House in Bastikiya, Dubai, 2012

Bastikiya is a restored village previously inhabited by the Persian pearl and textile traders.  It is one of the last remaining historical neighborhoods in Dubai.  Compared to the tourist filled Dubai Mall with its dancing fountains, aquarium, 1,200 stores and view of the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, Bastikiya felt like a ghost town.  But what it lacks in excitement the small village made up for in its artist charm and peacefulness.

Alley pathway between houses in Bastikiya Dubai

The old-Dubai architecture is similar to Bahrain.  Tiny alleys between mud houses with palm-frond roofs (barasti) are a kind of human warren built as a fortress against the desert.  Most houses had a central courtyard.  Larger houses also incorporated wind towers.

Wind tower were natural air conditioners that took advantage of ocean breezes.

Tallest wind tower in Yazd, Iran

Brought to the Gulf by Persian immigrants, wind towers date back to the fourth millennium BCE in Iran and are found in central and southern Iranian deserts.  There are several types of wind towers including a style built over a cellar or an underground reservoir.  The evaporating water cooled the air and the inside of the house.

Windtower Shutters in Muharraq, Bahrain

Equipped with shutters, the tower could be opened from any of the four sides.  Depending on the wind’s direction, the shutters were opened to capture the wind and directed it to the sitting rooms below.

Windtower House. Inside sitting room. Muharraq, Bahrain

In Bahrain most of the old houses with wind towers have disappeared.  A few Muharraq wind tower houses have been preserved by the Sheikh Ebrahim Center for Culture and Research.  La Fontaine Center for Contemporary Art, a restored private home, has a wind tower.

Perhaps someday in the future, this tiny village using traditional desert architecture with thick mud walls and wind towers will be the last building standing in Dubai.   Only time will tell.

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