Would You Care for Some White Coffee? The Arab Dinner Party

White Coffee Orange Blossum Water

“We would so love to have you come to dinner at 8:30” was the text I received from our Lebanese friends.

The Thursday night arrived (Friday and Saturday are our weekends) and about 8:30 Mojo and I started getting ready.  It was 90 degrees and humid, so I dressed casual – 7 for All Mankind jeans, a corset top from Italy, a scarf from Paris and gold wedge Michael Kors’ heels.  I grabbed the hostess gifts – a bottle of red wine and a red flamingo lily and we headed over at 9pm.

9:10 we drove up to a completely empty driveway.  As we got out, a second car, another friend with a dish for the table, pulled up and the three of us were the first guests to arrive.  We shouted our greetings and kissed our hosts three times.  Setting down my purse the waiter asked what I would like to drink – soda, juice, wine or scotch – and we sat down to wait for the others to arrive.

The next arrival at 9:30 was a Brazilian married to a Lebanese man.  She complained she had to wake her husband up at 9 from his nap.  He complained they would be the first ones to arrive.  He didn’t know I was coming.

We started out in the sunroom, the women and men sitting together.  By the time the third couple arrived, the women were encouraged to retire to the large U-shaped living sofa and the men stayed put.  Armchairs were added to complete the circle.  Each new arrival walked around the circle greeting each woman with either a kiss or a handshake if they did not know one another.  The men might come through and shake our hands but many simply stood on the edge and waved hello.

Sometimes when we eat with this family we sit outside but tonight it was dinner (indoors) not a barbeque (outside) because of the humidity.  As a result I was under-dressed.  The other ladies, hair freshly blown dry at the salon, wore cocktail dresses or elegant evening pants, clothes they would never wear outside.

We chatted, drank and tried not to nibble too much for we all knew our hostess cooked the food herself.

Around 11:30 the hostess called to the twenty–five guests “dinner is served”.   The ten foot dining room table held 13 silver platters for the Arab style buffet.

If my memory serves me well  …

Green Salad with tomatoes and avocado

Spinach and cheese  fatayer – triangles of dough filled with spinach or a feta cheese mixture

Chick peas and tomatoes side dish

Kibbeh (ground meat) baked with onions in a round casserole dish, cut into diamonds

Red pepper salad decorated with walnuts

Rice with chicken topped with slivered almonds

Lamb, stuffed vine leaves and zucchini – Waraq enab

Lima bean and onion salad

Beef tenderloin bites in a sauce

A mound of white rice the size of a large soup pan

Asian style mixed vegetables

Sweet and sour chicken

Chinese cabbage salad

We ate and ate as the hostess patrolled the tables to encourage us to fill our plates.  Thank you, it’s wonderful everyone told her.

“Satain, satain” she replied pleased to see us eating.

After everyone took two plates, the dining table was cleared.  The desserts were set out.

Chocolate Cheesecake

Guava with pomegranate seeds and syrup

Carrot Cake made with fresh carrots

A trifle – cream, blueberries, and sponge cake

A platter of Australian cantaloupe, Indian sweet melon and Saudi watermelon

The waiter came around with small cups of Lebanese white coffee – hot orange blossom water – and sweet mint tea.  The men lit up cigars.

At 1am the first guests filtered out.  Then couple by couple said their goodbyes.  Waiting for our turn to say good bye, we stood near the foyer littered with bouquets of flowers, Villeroy and Boch shopping bags, and boxes of Panache chocolates.

It was a wonderful evening, but now you understand why a dinner party takes three days to prepare.  Every dinner is an Event and a great show of hospitality.

My Mojo Floweth Over

Mojo one of the Rabbits in my life.

MOJO

I was really disturbed yesterday to listen to the Yahoo entertainment commentator say nasty things about Cher not being able to cry at Chaz Bono’s dance recital because of her cosmetic surgery.

First, she looks Fan ROCKIN tastic. Second, she is a Diva and if she didn’t look eternally young you would criticize her for that.  Third don’t make fun of my friend.

Yes Cher and I are friends, well – that is – we both know Mojo.

Mojo is my husband.  And there are two reasons I married him.

1 – He remembers everything and acts as my life’s walking encyclopedia.  Sometimes if he gets a little tipsy he reveals too much from the “X” pages where people don’t usually go and I kick him under the table.

2- He has LESS than 6 degrees of separation with everyone.  And that includes Cher.

Everyone else 6 degrees of Separation

Everybody but Mojo

A couple years ago, Mojo walked straight through the First Class Lounge in the Bahrain airport to his favorite quiet corner.  He was a bit irritated to see a slim woman in boots and a cowboy hat and her friend sitting in his spot.  He sat near them and pulled out his laptop.

Within seconds he recognized the voice and turned around and asked.

“What are you doing here?”

It was Cher.  She was returning from a trip to Kathmandu.  Her flight was diverted to Bahrain because the Bangkok airport had been bombed and was closed.

“I am on my way to Germany to see a friend,” she told Mojo.  “But they can’t tell me whether or not I will fly out tonight.  Can you recommend a place to stay if we get stuck here?”

“You are welcome to stay at our house.  My wife would love to host you.  I am going out of town,” he offered pulling out his mobile and dialing the house.  Please Eva pick up he thought.

I heard the phone ringing but it was about midnight.  Who would be calling besides my husband?

“Eva I’m at the airport.  There are some stranded passengers here and I was hoping you could have them stay at the house.”  Before I could protest about all the things I needed to do, he handed the phone over to Cher.

“Hello” was all she said.

“Is this really Cher?” I nearly screamed but restrained myself like any self respecting (Los) Angeleno.

We chatted for about a half an hour.  She told me about trying to sell her house in Malibu, Vegas, Katmandu, vacationing in Santa Barbara and I invited her and her assistant to stay with us.

“Is there anything to do in Bahrain?  Should I try to stay here for a couple of days?”

Cher at Caesars PalaceCher’s name in lights at Caesar’s Palace, Believe, singing Shoop Shoop Shoop in Mermaids, getting an Oscar, Moonstruck, her farewell tour all went through my mind.  I compared those images with the Gulf Hotel ballroom and hesitated two seconds too long before springing into my “Bahrain is so interesting” speech.

Cher promised she would give me a call if she ended up staying.  “You Haven’t Seen the Last of Me” she promised.   She flew onto Germany that night.

Cher’s new movie Burlesque made over $100 million.  The other day Cher tweeted her Rimpoche arrived from Kathmandu.    And Mojo said she has a great ass.

Thank You.

Besides a two minute video clip on Yahoo every other day, what do you have ugly, chubby man?

Tapas under the Moon

Beautiful

Aaah the weather has shifted.  The humidity disappeared last weekend and the air was a comfortable 90 degrees.  Time to sit outside.

On this island it is a challenge to find a nice restaurant or café that overlooks the water.   We offered to take our Saudi guest to the Ritz Carlton to have drinks at Mai Tai, a “private” bar set off from the Trader Vic’s meat market.  Minutes before we left, I was told the police blocked the highway around the Burgerland Roundabout due to a funeral/protest.  Not wanting to spend the evening in traffic we decided to head south.

The Thai restaurant at the Al Areen Resort (previously known as The Banyan Tree Desert Resort) had good food and a nice deck that didn’t overlook the sea.  Since things have changed the last few months, I decided to call before we drove the half hour out there.  Good thing I did because the receptionist apologetically whined “It’s closed Madame.”

“Really? What restaurants are open?”

“Only the (something I couldn’t understand) is open.”

If things had deteriorated that much, I’d better ask the important question.  “Do they serve alcohol?”

“No Madame.”  That quickly ended the call.  It’s too bad, my husband and I loved their villas with the private courtyards and pools.

The other option was the new Sofitel in Zallaq.  The Sofitel is beautiful and far away from downtown.  Still it’s an easy drive straight down the new highway towards the Bahrain International Circuit (the BIC).  Instead of turning left at the light towards the BIC, Al Areen and the Lost Paradise waterpark, you continue straight towards Zallaq, a small village.  You can’t miss the Sofitel, the road ends at the front security gate.

Previously we took the family for Friday Brunch at Sofitel’s Saraya.  The first time it was good.  The second time it was less than average.  In June, my husband and I went with another couple to try Fiamma, the Italian restaurant.  All four of us agreed it was well below satisfactory including the discussion we had with our waitress when she brought the wrong champagne.

I called the number listed in the Bahrain Hotel & Restaurant Guide 2011.  The operator answered “Sheraton Bahrain Good Evening.”

“What this is not the Sofitel?”  I checked the guide again.  Yes I dialed the correct number.  Then I noticed the Sheraton Hotel and number was listed just above the Sofitel and both phone numbers were the same!   Some smart Sheraton rep figured out a way to harass their new competitor.

But we will not be defeated.  I checked the Sofitel website.

The Tapas Bar was an option for drinks and snacks.  I called and the receptionist declared “all of our restaurants are open.”   I lowered my food expectations and got excited about avoiding traffic and sitting outside under the moon.

One of our favorite cities is Barcelona.  We enjoy sitting at the tapas bars people watching while having wine and choosing little plates of hot and cold dishes – fresh baguette slices, Serrano ham, Manchego cheese, olives, chorizo and calamari in aioli.  So we know what a tapas bar can be.

Being in a Muslim country I really wondered what would be served instead of pork?  Usually pork was replaced with turkey ham and beef bacon.

We were pleasantly surprised the menu included Serrano ham and chorizo.  The calamari was grilled not fried.  Shavings of manchego cheese were served with dried bits of bread stick.  They had good meatballs, decent prawns and mussels.  My favorite was a hot bite of meat covered with cheese and served on bread.

The décor was pretty but the place lacks the vibe of a Spanish tapas bar.  The advertised dj was replaced by a track of Spanish guitar music.  And the Filipino staff does not understand the joys of nibbling slowly a dish or two at a time (our waitress needed to take the entire order first and brought us 11 plates all at once).  But like I wrote, the weather was great and it was nice to enjoy casual dining outside.

We parked in the front hotel parking lot and walked out along the beach to the restaurant.  Had I been wearing heels I would have complained.  We did discover there is a road and parking lot right next to the restaurant to accommodate women in abayas and stilettos.  The Tapas Bar is on the lower level and the upper level is La Mer, the seafood restaurant.

And by the way, The Sofitel Hotel number is 17 636363.

Seana and Beauty Walk to the World Beat

"Beauty" by Artist Seana Mallen

Beauty is an invisible essence certain women exhibit as they walk through the messiness of life.  Whether in a crowded market or an elegant café, it is how these women light up the space around them even in the noon sun.

Rushing to my 10am yoga class, I opened the door into the World Beat Fitness Center’s sunny café when BOOM I suddenly found myself whirling in Seana Mallen’s universe.  Seana was swirling around hanging up her paintings for the opening of her In Celebration of Women exhibit this afternoon.

Dedicated to her mother, a breast cancer survivor, who “lit up a room when she entered it, both by her positive personality and by bright red lipstick” Seana’s exhibit draws upon her mother’s inner beauty and all the anonymous women who color her world.

Seana is truly an ARTIST with a real CV and commissioned works around the world.  How did an international artist end up in Bahrain? – like many expat wives, her husband took a position here and she accompanied him looking at it as an opportunity to travel, paint and educate.  Here her gregarious nature and love of energy and color has turned her life into one bright spotlight.

A gifted teacher Seana set up Awali Arts as soon as she landed.  Under her guidance, many of my friends have grown from primary school type sketching to artists in their own right.  But Seana doesn’t just focus on unemployed housewives; she volunteers her time around the world helping school children create murals.  Or you might accompany her on a travel holiday painting in India, Africa or Jordan.  Or you may take a cruise and take a watercolor class from her.  And if you pop over to my house, you will see the one of the many sets of commissioned family portraits she has created.

But the easiest way to meet Seana today and until November 10th is to go have a coffee at the World Beat Café and gallery.  Maybe you will even get the chance to meet this strong, funny, enthusiastic fire-cracker who inherited all these qualities from her mother.

The Bouncer Guarding the Writer’s Circle

When Robin Barratt says WRITE he means it

Author Robin Barratt Security Expert

Usually one wouldn’t expect a group of writers to need a bouncer.  That’s not the case for the Bahrain Writer’s Circle.  If it wasn’t for bouncer Robin Barratt the meeting would not have even gotten started.

Last year Robin Barratt arrived in Bahrain.   After checking out JJ’s, the Coral Beach Club and Wrangler, he decided those clubs did not have the vibe he wanted.  He posted a notice that all writers on the island, whether they could dance or not, were invited to his inaugural party.

Admittedly I have a low opinion of bouncers.  My girlfriend met her husband when he was the bouncer at a club and the rest of the story is pretty grim, or amusing depending on who is doing the telling.

And that’s the key point – who is doing the telling.

Robin Barratt has written 6 books about his life as a bouncer.  Each cover features a large man with a tough English street bully attitude.  Frankly, Robin’s huge guns (biceps on normal people) prominently displayed on his covers frightened me.  But if Doing the Doors was the must-have book for clubbers around the world then Robin certainly told a good story.   I gathered two of my writing buddies and carrying our pashminas we trotted off to the Elite Hotel.

“Hello I’m Robin” were the first words out of his mouth.   Like his world wide fans, his warm smile and genuine enthusiasm immediately won me over.   Before my eyes he transformed from a tough thug into a charismatic leader.

And he has led.

Within months the BWC has grown from zero to 70 members, acquired a few corporate sponsors, created a website, gathered a FACEBOOK following, held creative writing workshops and spun off a poetry group, the Second Circle.  Currently Robin’s big project is creating an anthology called My Beautiful Bahrain, writings that reflect life in Bahrain.  He intends to publish it in January 2012.

At the last BWC meeting, he told the 30 odd writers assembled, “I always do what I say I am going to do.”

I don’t doubt it.

Any writer, published or not, who lives in Bahrain or has lived in Bahrain can contribute a piece to the anthology.  The one criterion about content is the work must stay out of politics and negative commentary.  Other than that it is a blank page and an opportunity to be creative.

If you don’t believe it is possible, come meet Robin for yourself at the next meeting.

Artist Demi Mcleod Exhibits at the Capital Club

Yin Yang by Demi Mcleod

Artist Demi Mcleod is showing her work at the Capital Club in the Bahrain Financial Center through this weekend October 6th, 2011.  At midnight the exhibition closes and she takes off her glass heels and runs back to her studio.

Demi is inspired by the things she is most familiar with – her goldfish, African animals and textures in fabrics.  In her mind’s eye they explode larger than life and that is when her alchemist side takes over.

Talk to Demi and she’ll explain how she combined a paint or an ink with a process which inevitably turns to gold.  Her works take time to develop because she experiments with materials gathered from her global travels.  Intrigued with each paints’ qualities she describes how they interacted with the light, the humidity and other colors.  Unafraid of the results she boldly moves forward.  Each layer deepens the painting creating new textures until her final vision comes to life.

Magic Carpet Anyone?

 

Sand Dunes in Saudi Arabia

Like the tales of 1,001 Arabian Nights, many of my stories take place in a kingdom whose rule has been passed from father to son for 200 years.  To an American this seems like quite a long time.  But to the natives whose ancient mothers remember the day Gilgamesh arrived looking for the pearl of immortality, the royal family’s arrival is as fresh as this morning’s bread.

As kingdoms go, it is a cosmopolitan kingdom under a king nothing like the English Henry the Eighth.  Not only do the muezzins call from the minarets five times a day, but followers of Ganesh, Buddha, Jesus and Zoroaster all congregate here and freely practice their rites.  Still I am a visitor.  It is best to stay out of the palace intrigues and to avoid the marching people.

After 2,555 nights on this desert island, I have stories to share.  Depending on who is doing the telling – they take place at the edge of the Arabian Gulf where the call “Allah Akbar” drowns out the sound of the waves.  When the sand here burns our feet, my fellow dragons, rabbits and I take to the sky and fly to diverse lands where we collect and create our own tales.

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