“I had no say in who I was” – Mahmoud Darwish’s Mural

Mahmoud Darwish Exhibit at Bin Matar House

The Arab world has a long tradition of poetry.

In the pre-Islamic era, in Northern Arabia, Bedouin poets challenged each other to verbal duels.  Before a panel of esteemed judges, they described their nomadic life.  Their poems typically began with a lament for an abandoned camp and a lost love.  In the second verse they praised their camel or horse and described their difficult desert journey to the fair.  The finale was a tribute to the poets’ tribes while their enemies were vilified. ( Al-Bab.com)

The most beautiful poems, the Mou’allaqat, became the Hanging Ones.  The poems inscribed in gold letters were hung on the Ka’ba – the sacred stone in modern Mecca.

In the Arab world, Mahmoud Darwish is the modern day Moudhahhabat or Gilded One.

The “savior of the Arab language” his thirty volumes of poetry have sold over two million copies.  Reporters wrote whether he read his poems in Cairo or Damascus thousands of people, from college professors to cab drivers, attended.

“He could not walk out in public without being recognized.”

Like his Bedouin predecessors, his poets are laments for his lost land and love, Palestine.  They describe his difficult journey to Lebanon after his upper Galilee village was destroyed by Israeli soldiers in 1948.  When his horse finally found its way back to Ramallah in the newly formed state of Israel, he began to write poetry reflecting his experience of exile.

Imprisoned several times for reading his poems, he eventually moved to the Soviet Union, Cairo, Tunis, Beirut, and Paris.  There he continued to lament Palestinian uprootedness while finding the courage, and humanity, to write about his Jewish friends, lovers and Israeli jailors in “tender, nuanced portraits”.

After a life-threatening heart surgery, Darwish’s focus changed to the personal experience that transcends all emotions and politics – death.

The Mural excerpts I posted,

Someday I will become a thought, a bird and a poet,

show Darwish became more metaphysical or Sufi-like.  Like others who are confronted with their own mortality, Darwish described his near-death experience;

I came before my hour so no angel approaches to ask:

what did you do over there in the world?

I don’t hear the chorus of the righteous or wailing of the sinners

I am alone in whiteness

alone …

Alone, in the center of a room at the Bin Mattar House is a 4×2 meter concrete wall echoing the Ka’ba.  Layered on gold sheets, a photographic print of the Mural manuscript is embossed onto its walls.

Until I visited the exhibit last week, Darwish was unknown to me.

His first book, Wingless Birds was published in 1960.  But it wasn’t until 2001 when he won the $350,000 Lannan Prize for Cultural Freedom that his works were widely translated into English.  After awarding his prize, this American foundation began translating his work and publishing it through the University of California Press.

“His courage in speaking out against injustice and oppression, while eloquently arguing for a peaceful and equitable co-existence between Palestinian Arabs and Israeli Jews is what motivated Lannan Foundation to honor him.”

French artists Marie-Francoise Rouy and Luc Martinez created this exhibit before Darwish’s death in 2008.  Normally Darwish destroyed his manuscripts.  But when this project was proposed, he agreed to write out the last lines.  This living wall is a place people can gather to hear him reading and feel his words with their hands.

Despite the fact that pre-Islamic poetry is etched into the Ka’ba,  its existence causes controversy and Imams debate its significance.  Darwish’s life and work written at this particular moment in time will continue to be a thorn in the side of those in power.

His elegy written on cement walls in Bahrain will probably be the closest this Moudhahhabat’s work will come to hanging alongside his Bedouin predecessors.

Mahmoud Darwish’s Mural  is a multimedia and interactive art installation by artists Marie-Francoise Rouy and Luc Martinez.  It will continue through 31 June 2012 at the Bin Mattar House in Muharraq, Bahrain.

From Clay She Molded an Image of Herself

This was actually after the second session. I forgot to take a photo of the first session.

The past four weeks I have been taking a sculpturing class from Michelle Karam.  For twenty years Michelle has been operating a ceramics studio.  This is the first time I got the opportunity to take her class.

She is teaching head sculpting.  Using her technique, in 8 sessions, we have gone from a figure that resembled a grey alien to a completed project.  She taught an amazing method to make the eyes.

Session 3 - adding ears and a base.

Session 4 - Fixing shoulder proportions and adding hair.

Session 5 -

Session five, I had to give her a lobotomy. I cut off the back of the head, scraped out the interior clay and reattached the cranium. I gained a new respect for brain surgeons.

Session 6-7.

For sessions 6-7, I spent most of the time hollowing out the stand and entire head, before stuffing it with newspaper.  I began attaching a hairpiece.  It was too heavy.  Her neck split open and her head fell backwards, nearly rolling off the table into my neighbor’s lap.

With help, I repositioned the head so she leaned forward and patched her severed neck.  Then added clay to the stand to support it.  Once everything was stable, again, I attached a head scarf.

The headscarf

It took four tries to get the headscarf correct.

Then I practiced making flowers until I came up with a strange lily and hibiscus arrangement.  It was time to be done – for now.  The class has been a fantastic experience.

The final outcome.

The amusing aspect of sculpting is that many of the heads looked quite a bit like their creator despite the attempts to create an Other.  I do not think mine looks like me.  It was only as I stared at Mojo over dinner did I realize she resembled him – with bigger lips.

I have no idea what will happen when she dries and is placed in the kiln.  I don’t know if she will live through her trial by fire.

Perhaps like the Divine I will have to create billions and billions in the hope that one day my creation will be perfect.

In the Beginning – Creation in Paradise

It is quite an ambitious project to set the Creation story from Genesis to music.  But Joseph Haydn felt he was up to the task and his masterpiece was rolled out in Vienna in 1798.

For the first time, on March 23rd, The Creation will be sung in Bahrain by the Manama Singers.

Musical Director Michael Natzke must have decided it was only fitting that the choir residing in Paradise should sing about the parting of the waters and the creation of all the animals.  Resident artist Seanna Mallen was commissioned to paint her vision of Creation for the official poster.

The Creation covers the story from the beginning – when God created the heavens and the earth (Genesis 1:1) – until Adam and Eve sing their love duet.  Although neither Genesis chapters 1 nor 2 specifically mentions any serenades, I think Haydn basically brings us up through the end of Genesis where they were naked but probably not singing.

The concert ends with the Angel Uriel vocalizing his advice for the pair to be happy with what they have and not wishing for anything more.  And again, although I really respect Angel Uriel, the only angel I could find was an unnamed cherubim.

I think Haydn wanting his oratoria to be popular committed two sins; the sin of pride – telling the story his way – and the sin of omission – telling the story but not the whole story- when he left out the part about the snake.

Still it promises to be a fabulous concert.

You can buy tickets for Friday’s concert at Al Osra, the Bookcase or at the Diplomat Radisson Hotel.

On Different Lines – An Exhibit

Gallery Nekogameya

“When you find the small building with the red door, please enter and sign in.” said the invitation.

Guest Book at Gallery Nekogameya

Outside Wakayama, Japan,  a group of artists held an exhibit at the Nekogameya Art Gallery.

Launa MB Karasuno, my sister, was one of the artists displaying her work.  Her series of black ink drawings on homemade paper was titled “On Different Lines”.

I rarely bother her when she is getting ready for an exhibit.  Like all artists, she gets stressed and works long hours finishing up her paintings before the opening.

On Different Lines, 2011 by Launa MB Karasuno

On first glance, her work looks so simple  and I wonder why did it take so long to create this?

But as I stare, the detail and the meaning begin to emerge.  And instead I wonder does she sit in front of her easel staring at the blank sheet, waiting for a shape or an image to grow in her mind?

Puddle, 2011, Launa MB Karasuno

As High as It was Deep, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Cavernous, detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Or does it come from her dreams?

Different than the decorative art we hang in our house, her work is difficult for me to describe.  Modern, simple, organic, minimal, from the soul are some words that come to mind but they inadequately convey the depth and detail.

She sees something in the world that I do not.

a big one detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

She appears to be describing her feelings or perhaps the culture she lives in.

Too Heavy, detail, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

Tethered - not, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

She’s a kind of poet, solidifying her entire expression into one thin line, describing her life in images.

Went Another Way, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

When We Are Old and Still, Launa MB Karasuno, 2011

I think Japan is the right setting for her work.  The exhibit has the feel of a Japanese choka, a brief 5-7 sound unit poem that reverberates with feeling.

My sense is her creativity is not based upon what she sees.  It seeps from the very silent dimensions within her mind.

You are Invited to a Year of Culture

Bahrain National Museum

Every year UNESCO designates an Arab city as the Arab Capital of Culture.  This year Manama, Bahrain gets to take center stage.

As things happen in Bahrain, the “go-ahead” to officially begin the year was given at 6pm on January 9th just in time for the first lecture at 8:30pm that evening.  James Koch kicked off the year discussing the Beyeler Foundation’s achievements to a small audience tucked away in a tiny room somewhere.

Again, as things go in Bahrain, events are not well advertised.  If we did not scour the social pages to see what the Sheikhas were up to, then the visiting musicians perform and we read about them a month later.

My friend Shandra the EXPERT Court Circular scourer read that HRH Princess Sabeeka bint Ibrahim Al Khalifa, wife of His Majesty King Hamad and Supreme Council for Women President visited the Bahrain National Museum on January 11th.

“The Sheikhas were at the museum.  Would you like to go and see this exhibit?” Shandra asked.

“Of course.  When should we go?”

“The article says nothing about the time or the dates.  Check around and see if you can find out.  But I think the museum is closed on Mondays,” she said.

This led me on a search to find out what is going on.

Yesterday’s front page headline had proclaimed THE POWER OF ART and highlighted HRH Prime Minister Prince Khalifa bin Salman Al Khalifa opening the Fine Art Exhibit at the museum.

But I was distracted by BD2,000 incentive to pay Electricity and Water bills (EWA) headline.

The government is planning to give Bahrainis about $5,300 to pay off their outstanding EWA bills.  The people who pay on time get a BD500 bonus.  Why? Because EWA needs money and 75% of the past due account are residential customers.

Seems to me the Bahrainis should be celebrating their good fortune.   Not only will they get the electricity bonus, they can go to the free exhibit at the museum where they might be inspired to use their talents constructively.

Bahrain National Museum.  This first exhibit features 90 works by 54 artists and a pavilion with artwork by 16 Arab artists.  It will run through the end of January.

As the official website does not show the hours, I believe the museum is generally open 8am-8pm.  Shandra said it is closed Mondays.

The National Museum is fantastic.  It’s a great place to learn about Bahrain.

Shopping on Amwaj Island

Amwaj Island Marina Market

The holiday season is upon us bringing lots of festive parties and seasonal markets.  That’s where I have been the last two days.

The Flea Market at Amwaj Island Marina is tomorrow, Saturday Dec. 10th from 10am-5pm.  I haven’t been to any of their previous markets.  But yesterday I met Mairi Thomas at the World Beat Holiday Sale.  She will be exhibiting there.

Mairi Thomas is new to Bahrain but not to the Gulf.  Hailing from Oman where she spent the last five years, she brings a lot of talent.  A teacher and sculptor by training, she took up photography in Oman.  She has a fabulous collection of cards and prints featuring Middle Eastern images.   An excellent eye for design, she brings a fresh perspective to images we’ve seen over the years.

Currently her work focuses on the beautiful country and people of Oman.  But she told me she cannot wait to get out and start taking pictures around Bahrain.

Omani Door by Mairi Thomas 2010

Mairi Thomas‘ collection is worth searching for as you walk around the market.  If you stop by her stall, her enthusiasm will draw you in.  Buy an extra coffee and take a few minutes to chat with her.

Calling All Talented Bahrainis Ages 16-26

Spring of Culture Talent Programme Application

The Spring of Culture organizers launched a Talent Programme for 2012.  It is open for any Bahraini musicians, artists, singers and poets between the ages of 16-26.  The Spring of Culture is a government sponsored month-long event featuring international artists.

It is a fabulous way to support the youth and help them to feel their artistry is important.  If you know any Bahrainis who might be interested please encourage them to apply.  The application is quite involved so they may need some help getting it completed.

December 15th, 2011 is the closing date for their application.

Spring of Culture Organization

Applications can be found at Spring of Culture Talent Programme website or at the Al Riwaq Gallery.

The applicants must turn in an application with their photo and a CD/DVD of their work to Mrs. Muna Yasser at the Economic Development Board, 12th Floor Seef Tower between 10am-1pm.

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