Flower in the Sand

Desert flower after a winter with less than 3/4s of an inch of rain.

When the sky is grey

and I see a rose sprouting through the cracks in the wall

I don’t say: the sky is grey

but keep my eye on the rose and tell it:

it’s quite a day!

from Mural by Mahmoud Darwish

Touring Bahrain? Get Your STREETSMART Guide

You are invited to the Streetsmart Bahrain Book launch party.

Yeah!  The party I have been waiting for.

My friend, author Melissa van Maasdyk, promised she would have her Bahrain travel guide ready before the Formula One in April.  And she did it.

Sunday night was the official reception.  As we drove up to the soon-to-be opened, second wing of the Kempinski Grand and Ixir Hotel, we waited for the line of dignitaries’ cars to be valeted.

“Who are all these people?” Mojo asked.

Arab men dressed in elegant white thobes, African women in long gowns, European ambassadors in business suits, and glam women in high-heels all hurried into the lobby.

“Melissa seems to know everybody in Bahrain,” I said.  “The UN people love her book so much they asked the Director General of UNIDO to speak tonight.  Some must be with him.   And there is Debbie and Mohammed,” I said, pointing at the Bentley pulling in behind us.

Mohammed and Debbie Al Asfoor, the Arabian Sheik perfume designer/creators, are one of the thirteen Bahraini insiders featured in the MY WAY sections (pg. 89) of the guide.   With her enthusiasm for Bahrain, Melissa charmed these Bahrainis into revealing their favorite, and previously unknown to outsiders, places to shop, eat and chill.

As we walked through the lobby doors waiters greeted us with shots of fresh watermelon juice as the Bahraini jazz band 13th Note played.

Melissa introduced me to interior designer Ammar Bashar who created the fabulous entry way for the amphitheater where Andrea Bocelli sang last week.

The very stylish Ammar accessorized his made-in-Bahrain suit with a Hermes scarf instead of a tie.  In Streetsmart he gives away his style secret – his shoes are custom made by a local shoemaker named Ghuloom and has his suits made in the souq at a “fraction of the cost of Seville Row”.   To find these places you need the map in the guide.

Luckily for Melissa, New York based Bahraini photographer Ghada Khunji (pg. 51) was in town for the opening.  I had not met her before.  Like me her favorite aspect of Bahrain is the warmth of the Bahraini people and its multifaceted cultures.  And one of her favorite places to exhibit her photos, eat, have a spa day and a yoga class is at La Fontaine Center for Contemporary Art (pg. 49).

I took a photo of my new friend Errin Stone the Chef and Manager of the Al Riwaq Gallery (pg. 116) getting his book signed.  Just last month Errin helped me host our book club meeting.  He came up with five fresh salads, sandwiches and of course Red Velvet Cake for us to nibble.  Afterwards the members texted me “It was the best book club meeting we’ve had in awhile.” I attributed it to the art and the gallery’s atmosphere.

On the globe Bahrain is small.  But Melissa still managed to bring together Bahrainis who had never met.

Words Bookstore owner Rana whose family has literally lived in Bahrain for centuries met the perfumer and creator of Green Bar, Reem al Khalifa (pg. 168) for the first time.  I had never heard about Green Bar’s made-in-Bahrain line of pure rose waters (pg. 171) but Rana who uses her line of plant-based skin creams said “I’m so glad to meet you.  I love your products.”

Besides these Bahraini gems, the guide includes Bahrain’s key tourist sites – Tree of Life, Barbar Temple, Bahrain Fort, Saar Settlement and the Bahrain National Museum, shopping highlights and the restaurants with the best food.

Next week when my family visits, I am going to travel “off road” and will follow Melissa’s guide deep into the souq to visit Azzam Ayurvedic “that wouldn’t be out of place in Harry Potter’s wizard’s market, Diagon Alley” and through Muharraq’s alleys to the first coffee shop founded by an out-of-work pearl diver.  My brother-in-law who keeps a photo album of his favorite dishes will love going deep in the heart of Gudaibiya to sample the BEST tikka in Bahrain.

I may or may not tell you about our adventures.  Unlike Melissa, I like to keep secrets.

If you want to tour the real Bahrain or need a detailed guide for a day trip, you can pick up Streetsmart at Words Bookstore on Budaiya Highway, Jashanmals in Al A’ali Mall, or the Virgin Mega Store in Bahrain City Center.

If you stay at the Kempinski in City Center, a copy will be in your room.

To get copies of Streetsmart Bahrain for your Formula One visitors, you can email editor@streetsmartbahrain.com.

Melissa and Jamal Shaheen Muharraq carpenter

See you at Jamal Shaheen’s carpentry shop on Road 1125 behind the unmarked wooden door on your left shortly after entering the street (pg. 69).

What Looks After You

A Castle Built in our Neighborhood

Knowledge is better than wealth.  You have to look after wealth;

knowledge looks after you.

– Ali

 

From Indries Shah, The Way of the Sufi

My Beautiful Bahrain

Some people are doers and some people talk a lot.

Robin Barratt is a doer – and a creator, an organizer, an inspiration and an all around good guy.  Just a little over a year ago Robin told the Bahrain Writers’ Circle that he would put together a book about Bahrain and get it published.  And he did it.

My Beautiful Bahrain compiled and edited by Robin Barratt

My Beautiful Bahrain is now available as a Kindle ebook on Amazon.

Forty writers from fifteen countries contributed short stories, mini-memoirs, poems and articles about this tiny, tiny island kingdom in the Arabian Gulf.

Based upon my numerous trips to the Ministry of Traffic, my short story “Ali and the Hummer” was chosen for the anthology.  I was inspired by a mysterious Arab woman clad in black leather I saw in the Seef Mall parking lot and another one driving a neon-pink Hummer who swerved in front of me near the Fateh corniche.

I am especially grateful to Robin for taking on a project no one else has done before.  Just as he made his contribution to the community, Robin is leaving Bahrain as work takes his family elsewhere.

That is what this book is about – Bahrain’s timeless appeal.  Since the Babylonians settled in Qal’at al Bahrain, people from all over the world have landed on the island and enjoyed their respite before sailing back into the world.  Nearly everyone who experiences living in Bahrain fondly – and longingly – remembers their days in paradise.

To view a Kindle ebook, you do not need a Kindle Reader.  You can download the free Kindle software onto your computer or IPAD or other tablet device.

WARNING reading My Beautiful Bahrain may tempt you to taste the forbidden fruit.  Do not read while driving.

What Good is It?

The last word in ignorance is the man who says of an animal or plant: “What good is it?”

– Aldo Leopold

1887 – 1948 born in Burlington, Iowa

Aldo Leopold is considered to be the the father of wilderness management.  In Baraboo, Wisconsin where he made his home on “a worn out farm”,  March 2-4, 2012 is Aldo Leopold weekend.

On this sand farm in Wisconsin, first worn out and then abandoned by our bigger and better society, we try to rebuild, with shovel and axe, what we are losing elsewhere. It is here that we seek—and still find—our meat from God.

Foreword to A Sand County Almanac (1949), ASCA viii

Sand County Almanac by Aldo Leopold

All over the USA including in Ames, Cedar Rapids, and Perry Iowa, there will be people getting together to learn more about his Leopold’s legacy.

Check out the calendar to see whether there is a hike, a Green Fire film screening, a service project or a reading of his works in your area in early March.

Green Fire is a 2011 full length documentary about Aldo Leopold’s life.

In The Palm of My Heart

Happy Valentine's Day - cards and flowers from my children

11 –

Let us be together

Hanged by the peg of heart

Beneath the sky we adore

The sky that loves

You are coquetry of the beginning of jasmine

You spread out in my liberty

From a fearful night

From In the Palm of My Heart by Ali Al Satrawai

Pearl, Dreams of Shell

Ali Al Satrawai is a Bahraini poet, writer and journalist.  This verse came from an anthology of contemporary poetry, Pearl, Dreams of Shell compiled and translated by Hameed Al Qaed.

Lessons from the Najd – How to Live in a Sandstorm

Prince Sultan bin Salman Al Sa'ud's Farm

As we are the middle of a sandstorm, I changed my theory.  I think walls around Middle Eastern houses help to keep the desert from taking over the front yard.

Living in an older section of the island, our compound is surrounded by a wall.  Inside we hardly notice the sandstorms.  But many of my friends have moved out to the new golf development in the middle of the desert.  Designed to appeal to westerners, neither the houses nor the development have perimeter walls.  My friends are complaining the sand is piling up in mini-dunes around their homes and they cannot open their windows with all the swirling sand.

Several years ago Prince Sultan bin Salman bin Abd al-Aziz Al Sa’ud invited Mojo to his renovated, al-Udhaibat farm outside of Riyadh.  The farm retained its traditional Najdi architecture which enabled people to live in the desert before electricity.

One key aspect was to surround the house with palm trees.  The palms acted as natural barriers against the sand.  The air was cooled as it swept through the shaded areas under the palms.  Upon reaching the garden, walls kept any remaining dust and sand from entering the house.

Courtyard and airflow

Besides surrounding the house with walls, central courtyards are a key feature of these mud houses.  The wind passing over creates a low-pressure zone in the courtyard.  This sucks in eddies but the low-pressure is counteracted by well-placed apertures in the rooms into the courtyard.

During the night, the courtyard and roof act as a cool air sink.

During the day, the sun heats the courtyard.  Warm air rises creating a chimney effect and pulls breeze through the rooms.

In the evening, the courtyard and buildings retain heat then give it off as the night air cools.

As I think about our impact on the desert whether as an eco-tourist or a westerner living in the desert, I find William Facey’s BACK TO EARTH: ADOBE BUILDING IN SAUDI ARABIA to be a very enlightening study of traditional Arab architecture and its effect on the environment.

All photos and images are from this book.

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